KZ GT550 Carbs

[Fuzexi]

Hi,
I’ve had this problem with my GT 550 for a while, and I really need to
sort it out. Ever since I dropped the bike (tried to ride off with the
disc lock on - duhh!) the carbs have been flooding petrol and filling
up my air filter with petrol. I took it to the garage a while back,
and they replaced 2 diaphragms, although they never really got the
synchronisation sorted. But then a short while later the prblem came
back. I had taken the float bowl off (I haven’t got a garage or
anything) because I figured the floats might be stuck, but it looked
ok. (Can’t really tell, I’m not a mechanic). I think it must be the
floats, right? Or the needle? Sounds crazy, but maybe the floats are
filling up with petrol and sinking? I think it’s just carb no.1.

I am going to do this myself, and even buy one of those carb
synchronising tools to measure the air pressure. I have heard it’s a
really tricky thing to do. Is it that tricky?

Ps my carbs are the Keihin CV ones, it’s a 1990 GT 550 G4.

Peter

[Beav]

Hi,
I've had this problem with my GT 550 for a while, and I really need to
sort it out. Ever since I dropped the bike (tried to ride off with the
disc lock on - duhh!) the carbs have been flooding petrol and filling
up my air filter with petrol. I took it to the garage a while back,
and they replaced 2 diaphragms, although they never really got the
synchronisation sorted. But then a short while later the prblem came
back. I had taken the float bowl off (I haven't got a garage or
anything) because I figured the floats might be stuck, but it looked
ok. (Can't really tell, I'm not a mechanic). I think it must be the
floats, right? Or the needle? Sounds crazy, but maybe the floats are
filling up with petrol and sinking? I think it's just carb no.1.
I am going to do this myself, and even buy one of those carb
synchronising tools to measure the air pressure. I have heard it's a
really tricky thing to do.
Is it that tricky?

Piece of piss actually, but you need to stop the carb(s) flooding before you
do anything else. As you've already had the float bowls in view, you need
get back there and look slightly beyond them to the float valve which is
closed by the float when it... floats. If the valve or valve seat is fucked,
it won't stop fuel flowing and petrol will piss into your airbox and onto
the deck, hopefully by-passing anything electrical when it does. The valves
are ruber tipped and can go too hard and fail to seal.

For the cost of a pair of valves, I wouldn't fart about trying to make the
old ones seal, I'd just get new ones.

Once youo've got the carbs sealing again, the balancing is easy. Follow the
instructions on the tool packaging and make sure you've got access to the
idle speed adjustment knobbie and the two airbleed screws on the carbs.
They're usually blanked off btw, to stop people farting about with 'em, but
they're easy to dig out.

Ps my carbs are the Keihin CV ones, it's a 1990 GT 550 G4.

Google for the carbs and see if you can find a diagram showing the positions
of the idle speed/airbleed screws and what have you's.

[Dan L]

Post by Fuzexi
Hi,

<snip>

Post by Fuzexi
I am going to do this myself, and even buy one of those carb
synchronising tools to measure the air pressure. I have heard it's a
really tricky thing to do. Is it that tricky?
Ps my carbs are the Keihin CV ones, it's a 1990 GT 550 G4.

I had been told that balancing the carbs on the Zephyr was a *right* PITA,
and having had to take the carbs off to change the throttle opener cable I
could well believe this to be the case.

However, our man Lozzo [1] carried out the entire operation from start to
finish in the amount of time it took for me to enjoy a cup of coffee and a
chat[2] with Elly, despite the fact that he'd overslept and my arrival was
his wake up call.

[1] Fucking top bloke
[2] And, of course Elly for providing the coffee and civilised conversation,
mostly about my deranged neighbours.